Testaccio neighborhood in Rome

We're staying in a wonderful one-bedroom apartment in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome, south of the historic center. Thanks again to Lori D. for recommending this apartment so highly. Here's the patio:

See that wall with the arches? It's about 20 feet from our wall.
It's an ancient Roman wall from about the year 200 PBJ (Pre Baby Jesus).

It's the main feature of a small park that wraps around to the backyard of our apartment.
This neighborhood was the port for Republican Rome (pre Caesars and the Empire).
Goods were brought in by ship (the Tiber is nearby) and then offloaded here.

The terra cotta amphoras used for shipping various oils could not be used again,
so they were discarded onto a pile that eventually became what's now known
as Monte Testaccio. (The name Testaccio comes from the Latin word for shards of terra cotta.)  

The mound is surrounded by a bunch of restaurants that are cut into the mound.
Here in this restaurant they've put in windows to show the pile.

Testaccio was mostly a blue collar neighborhood and most of the buildings were
built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

I love that so many of these buildings actually show their history on their faces.

Another example.

The ledge makes a great cat hangout to keep an eye on all the dogs in the 'hood. 

There used to be a massive slaughterhouse nearby. It was abandoned years ago and the government of Rome is slowly converting the buildings for use by the residents. In Seattle we have had a similar conversion happen with the Sandpoint Naval base.)

Here's part of the slaughterhouse complex, not yet converted.

I enjoyed getting some photos of the industrial decay in the pre-conversion buildings.

Some of the overhead track and pulley system.

Two of the buildings have been converted into MACRO Testaccio, an affiliate of the
Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome.

Here's the "Before" photo from inside one warehouse.

And here's one of the converted warehouses, currently featuring some amazing sculptures
 by Giuseppe Ducrot. 

Another view

I ran into this nice woman from LA. She spends one week a year in Seattle.
I wanted a photo that would show how huge these statues are.

This one is called Veronica.

Another sculpture. (I wanted to call this one Betty to go with Veronica.)

Here's the all new Mercato Testaccio, across from the old slaughterhouse. 

Each morning, we come here for breakfast. This place is called Strit Fud,
which pronounced in Italian sounds like Street Food.

Reminds me of Pike Place Market, but newer and with fewer tourists.

Lots of food, as well as all sorts of other goods.

A great seating area in the middle. The white railings way in the background
are to protect the ancient Roman road revealed underneath.

Now, mind you, I'm not a big fan of ALL the public art in Rome.
This for example on the side of my building would creep me out.

But I do have an appreciation for some of the graffiti that's found almost everywhere.

For one thing, it can make for some pretty cool photos.

Especially with some local color. (Yes, I gave him some money.)

Besides, how many other cities have graffiti that reference the early Renaissance
and that can only be seen from a passing train (which is where I shot this from)?

On Wednesday, John and I went to the Italian Open Tennis Tournament.

We had great seats for these early round matches.

We got to see Rafael Nadal of Spain.

Andy Murray of the UK.

And a special surprise appearance in the stands
by John McEnroe and Bjorn Borg.

Well, okay, two guys dressed to look like McEnroe and Borg.
Notice the attention to detail in those short shorts.

The sun was extremely strong, and there was no relief from it,
leading to some creative haberdashery.

Now that you've googled "haberdashery", here's the same guy's second version.

And, of course, being Italy, here's what the female ushers were wearing.
Check out the heels. (And ignore the bird poop on the plexiglass divider.)

I'm going to end this update from the land of Gucci, Prada, Armani, etc. on that fashion note.